“The three worlds form one city of mine and Kashi therein is my Royal palace.”- Skanda Purana
Varanasi, also known as Kashi, is a story older than the whispers of ages. One of the seven sacred town of the Hindus, Varanasi is the oldest living town of the world, witnessing the ever-changing course of time, the evolution of the nation from the times it was ruled by the kings to the era when it emerged as a democratic nation ruled by the will of the people. Nevertheless, Varanasi embodies a unique youthfulness to itself, owing to its vivid ornate beauty.
More About Varanasi
Varanasi, where materialism and monasticism co-exists, where people are full of lives yet this is the place where people desire to see the death, more closely and divinely. Interestingly, it has been mentioned in prominent Hindu texts Rigveda and Mahabharata, as Kashi, the city of lights. Today, it is known as Varanasi, a name that was derived from the confluence of Varuna and Assi river, the tributaries of Ganga, that flows past the town. Over the years, the name Varanasi got corrupted, resulting in it being called Banaras as most people know it today.
Over the years, several occurrences and events, such as the Ganga aarti and the centuries old celebrated Ramleela, has shaped the tenor of Varanasi for which it is famously known. A city filled with complexities and contradictions, full of life and death, as well. For people outside Varanasi, death seems as a sign bad omen, a source of fear, but for people living in Varanasi, death is celebrated as a beginning of the journey of salvation, the path of Moksha. Irrefutably, the dichotomy of life and death prevails in the ambience of Varanasi.
Talking about the life in Varanasi, it begins with morning stroll on ghats, and ends with the melody of Ganga aarti. Each ghat has a story that origins from the pages of the past, with a new version that transcends through each generation. Nevertheless, life in Varanasi is an extreme of everything, from the devotion to the playfulness, known as the Banarasi that, for the never-ending political brainstorming while savoring the hot teas, to the manifold of delicacies, that harbor in the lanes and alleys of Varanasi.
Uncovering the Gourmet Called Kashi’s Flavour
The delicacies of Varanasi form a striking jewel on its treasured assets that wins over the crowd. Why? Because of its piquant flavors and aroma that bring a burst of delight to the taste buds. From the crispy kachoris to spicy tamatar chaat to the mouth- watering jalebi along with rabdi, Varanasi has a platter of goodness for every type of foodies.
Over the years, Varanasi has added new outlets while also witnessing a manifold growth in its age-old shops that are serving for decades. Let’s discover some of its old culinary heritage that is captivated several generations of visitors and locals, altogether.
1. Khasta Kachori
Mornings in Varanasi begins with savory and taste of crispy kachoris, and jalebis dipped in golden syrup. Known for its crispy texture and exotic blend of spices and dal, khasta kachoris, are an inseparable part of Varanasi’s cuisine history. Varanasi is home to some of the oldest outlets that make these khasta kachoris.
The origin of kachoris is thought to be rooted in the region of Rajasthan. The kachoris were brought by the Marwari community who settled themselves in Varanasi became a part due to trades and businesses. Easier to carry and longer shelf-life made kachoris a preferred snack for traders.
Traditionally, kachoris are served along with some curd, sev, potato curry and some chutney over it. Over the years, several successful outlets have grown in the lanes of Varanasi that serve the hot crispy kachoris. Varanasi’s kachori lane, also known as kachori gali, is known for being the home of some of the most appetizing street food outlets, including chaat and kachoris. As we explore them, here are some of the most famous shops that are serving kachoris for years:
Chachi ki Kachori
Established for more than hundred years, Chachi ki kachori is a beloved outlet spot in Lanka, led by Chachi (aunty in Hindi) and her family. They are specialized in crafting piping hot and crispy kachoris, made with homemade spice mixture along with pumpkin curry. Priced at the cost of ₹100, they are served in a dried leaf bowls, with some garnishes. The outlet opens at 7 AM in the morning till 10 AM and then reopens at 1PM to 6 PM in the evening.
Neelu Kachori Bhandar
They are known for their spicy chole kachori, standing as long-established legacy in the famous kachori lane of Varanasi. It costs around ₹200 for two people and serves from 6 in the morning till 12 at night.
Rambhandar
Established for over hundred and fifty years, Rambhandar is filling the appetite of Varanasi with their crispy kachoris. The kachoris are filled with tempting potato-lentil fillings that are served along with a savory tamarind-mint chutney and aloo-chana curry on the side, costed at ₹300 for two people. For an extra crunch of satisfaction, the Rambhandar also serves crunchy sugar syrup laden jalebis. Apart from the kachoris and jalebis, Rambhandar is also known for serving one of the best chaats in Varanasi, made in pure ghee giving it it’s signature taste. For the foodies who love indulging in sweet and savory gourmets, Rambhandar is a must visit place to devour at. The outlet is located in thatheri bazaar in Govindpura and runs from 8AM in the morning till 11AM and then from 2:30 PM till 5:30 PM in the evening.
Om Shree Ram Bhandar
Varanasi has several shops that serve kachoris but what makes Om Shree Ram Bhandar stands apart is their pursuit to serve kachoris with a sattvic approach. The kachoris and jalebis are crafted in the desi ghee, served along with the dash of aloo-curry made without garlic and onion. The shop is located at mint house, nadesar where it runs from 7:30 in the morning till 10 in the night. It costs around ₹200 for two persons.
2. Chaat
Who doesn’t love chaat? Well in every corner of India, there is a stall that serves spicy chaat. On an iron tawa, potatoes are fried till crispy and chana curry is added over along with a dash of spices. On the top of it, a blend of chutneys and crushed pani-puris are added that add the signature taste to the chaat. Additionally, curd, sev and pomegranate seeds are added as a garnish to the chat making it more tempting and delicious. Just like kachoris, chaat is an integral cuisine of Varanasi. However, what is more astounding is the variant of chaat that is specifically found in Varanasi, known as tomato chaat, fondly known as tamatar chaat. Similar to aloo chaat, tamatar chat has tomato and tomato puree as its main ingredient that is cooked till it turns thick and then served in the same way as the traditional chaat. Tamatar chaat was born in Varanasi and is served in every lane and corners of the Varanasi city. Apart from tamatar chaat, there is another delight known as palak chaat, that swoons the taste buds of Varanasi locals. However, some of the most iconic outlets are popular for their chaat have been listed below.
Kashi Chaat Bhandar
On the top of the list is the Kashi chaat Bhandar which recently came into news after the visit of Nita Ambani who came here during her son’s wedding preparations. The age-old shop has been referred as the King of chaats in Varanasi. Most unique peculiarity about this shop is that it serves a variety of chats, including aloo chaat, tamatar chaat and palak chaat, without any use of onion and garlic in it. Due to its proximity with the Kashi Vishwanath temple and ghats, the shop is always surrounded with crowds around it. Overall, kashi chaat Bhandar provides its customers with top-notch services and facilities, making it a desirable spot for all the chat lovers or foodies in general. The costs of an average dish in Kashi chaat Bhandar is around ₹100 for two people.
Deena Chaat Bhandar
Established since 1960s near luxa road Varanasi, the deena chaat Bhandar is speacially famous for their authentic tamatar chaat whose recipe has been bestowed to them by the late Deena Nath Kesari, the founder of the shop. The recipe of tamatar chaat at deena chaat bhandar is so popular that celebrity chefs like Sanjeev Kapoor and Ranveer Brar have tried to recreate the chaat. The taste and aroma of tamatar chaat at deena chaat bhandar is a unique blend of spices, nuts, mustard oil and ghee that is second to none, an outcome of the confidential recipe used for over five decades. Apart from the tamatar chaat, they are also famous for their dahi-kachori, choora matar and pani-puris. The price range is around ₹200 for two people.
3. Lassi and Thandai
Visit to Varanasi during summers calls for some refreshments such as lemonades and tangy drinks as companions. However, lassi and thandai are not far behind when it comes to give a dash of relax to the visitors. Lassi is made of churning curd with sugar and dry fruits. On the other hand, thandai is a sweet cool drink made by using milk cream called malai and dried fruits. Varanasi is specially known for being a hub of delicious lassis and thandai that are sold during the prickly hot months of march till June. They can be found in any corner or lane of the city, but the ones who have made lassis a well-known name among the locals and visitors of Varanasi is the pehelwaan lassi and the blue lassi shop.
Pehelwaan Lassi
Known for a sassy name, pehelwaan lassi has been running since 1950. It was started by Panna sardar who was a famous wrestler (hence got the name pehelwaan) back in those days, and interestingly, people believed that he is selling the same lassi that he consumed for strength. The shop is now handled by his sons who have now expanded with two more franchises, one at Ravidas chauraha and the other at Assi-ghat. As the sunrises, the Yadav brothers begin the shop with them hand-churning the curd to make lassis. They keep the lassis as healthy as possible, and traditional, by avoiding artificial flavor or preservatives, and adding the right nutrients, such as probiotics, calcium and fats. The prizes of the lassis vary according to the size and flavor.
Blue Lassi
No, the blue lassi doesn’t offer blue colored lassis! Apologies for the lousy joke and let’s head to the another popular lassi outlet that is serving on the Varanasi ghats for years. It is a small shop that received its name due to its blue walls. Priced at ₹200 for two people, The Lassi is hand churned, with several combinations, including banana and coconut, strawberry and pomegranate being served in an earthenware. To enhance the flavors, the lassis are garnished with cumin seeds, saffron, pistachios and cashews over it, giving it a crunchy taste.
4. Chai
Who doesn’t love chai? Well chai is one of the most favorite beverages in India, where a majority cannot even start their days without a cup of milk tea. Varanasi, too has the same tradition, with starting there days with a cup of hot tea with kachoris and jalebis as well. Varanasi is especially famous for their malai chai, where the full fat milk cream is layered over the tea, enhancing its taste and texture. Some of the popular chai stalls in Varanasi are:
Bhaiya Ji Chai
One of the most famous tea-stall in Varanasi, it is located near the Dashwamedh Ghat. It is known for their tulsi-infused milk tea served in kulhads. They run from since the morning at 6am till 11 pm in the night and costs around ₹10 per tea.
Lakshmi Tea Stall
A perfect location to begin your Varanasi trail, Lakshmi tea-stall is an eight-decade old outlet that not only celebrated in Varanasi but also in the entire India. They are well known among locals for their bread toast roasted in coal and served with milk cream and sugar layer spread over it. Prized at ₹20, they serve from 4 am in the morning till 11 pm at night.
Pappu Tea Stall
A popular spot for the Varanasi citizens who love indulging in political chit-chats, engaging in long discourses while sipping on a hot cup if tea. The place is so popular among political aficionados, that even prime minister Narendra Modi has graced himself on the shop while he travels across his constituency. Interestingly, pappu tea stall is the same place which gave birth to hajmola tea, a uniquely strange combination of hajmola and chai that took the internet by storm a few months ago. Lemon tea and the filtered milk tea served in kulhad are among the popular teas served here. They are prized at ₹15 (they only accept cash) and opens at 6 am in the morning to 1 pm in the noon and again at 5 pm in the evening till 11 pm at night.
Kashi Café
Another old gem near the Assi ghat, the Kashi café has been standing here since last four decades serving their special tea and cappuccino coffee. Costed around ₹30, the café runs from 6 am in the morning till half past 9 in the night.
5. Choora Matar
As the winter arrives, so is the time for Varanasi’s popular winter snacks to take over the streets. Choora matar, also known as chiwda matar is a famous snack that took birth in Varanasi. The popular delicacy is prepared from flattened rice, fresh green peas, milk, garam masala, and loads of desi ghee. Cooked in ghee and garnished with cashew-cilantros, the choora matar is served in kulhads, with the green peas giving it a refreshing green hue. Although, choora matar can be found in almost every snack shop, The locals suggest the Deena chaat bhandar as the ideal place for the best experience. Other than deena chaat bhandar, there is Kashi chaat bhandar where you can find some mouthwatering choora matar.
6. Malaiyo
One of the best kept secrets of Varanasi that is only available during the winters. A close cousin of another dessert, rabri, malaiyo is only sold during the winters. The making of the malaiyo is the reason behind its unique texture and taste. The milk is boiled in an iron wok and then left overnight for the dew drops to do its magic. The drops initiate the forming of the milk which is then churned along with the saffron strands, cardamom and sugar. The malaiyo is then garnished with pistachio and almonds. The entire process is tedious, however the final taste of malaiyo, makes it all worth it. The instant malaiyo enters our mouth, it fizzles out leaving a nuance of saffron and pistachio. One thing that needs to be taken care of is that the mil froth is only created at low temperature, in order to taste it, one must have the malaiyo in the morning. The best place to have malaiyo is in the thatheri bazaar which lies in the old-Banaras. It can be found in many shops but chances of them being adulterated is quite high. Some recommended shops that sell appetite rousing malaiyo is Shree-sweets & milks in Chaukhamba in thatheri bazaar and Pehelwaan lassi at Assi ghat. Not just malaiyo, but Varanasi also has Rabri, malaiyo’s popular cousin along with kesar milk and shrikhand.
7. Paan
Long back when Amitabh Bacchhan did the film DON, what caught the eyes of the audience was the song “khayike paan banaraswala”. Paan has been an integral part of Varanasi’s lifestyle. Locals believed that the first ever seed of paan was planted by Shiva and Parvati at mount Kailash, from where it was bought to Kashi. Since than paan has been considered very auspicious for the entire Varanasi. No trip to Varanasi is complete without the worshipping in the Kashi Vishwanath Mahadev temple and relishing the taste of Paan in the lanes of Varanasi. Some popular paan shops in Varanasi are listed below;
Ramchandra Chaurasia Tambul Bhandar
Established for more than five decades, this is one of the most popular out-let to have paan. They serve so many flavors of paan that one can’t stop at one and choose to have more paans.
Keshav Tambul Bhandar
Located at lanka chauraha, the Keshav bhandar is a popular paan shop that has been established for more than six decades. They are known for selling different types of paan during different months for instance, Maghai paan during December to April, Jagannathi paan during May to July and desi paan during August to September while the sanchi paan is sold all through out the year. Interestingly, their special Gilori paan has dazzled the likes of celebrated people like Amitabh Bacchan, Amit shah and Mulayam Singh Yadav.
Deepak Tambul Bhandar
Also known as Mohanlal paan wale, the shop is around 150 years old near the Lahori tola. The shop is run by the 4th generation of the family. They are popular for their maghai paan. A striking feature of the shop is that they use homecooked jarda where nicotin content is less.
Cafes and Restaurants in Varanasi
The food tour in Varanasi is not over unless the cafes and restaurants aren’t involved in the dialogue. Cafes are becoming a rage in today’s instagrammable generation that always looks out for aesthetic backdrop. Varanasi is not far behind when it comes to aesthetics, in-fact it is home to the ancient aesthetics of India, and the same is reflected upon its everyday lifestyle and the cafes that have erupted over time. Some of these cafes also serve with three course meals.
- Yogic’s Café: Situated near the Assi ghat, the yogic café is an old house turned café with an urban ambience and a touch of Varanasi’s aestheticism. The interior is quite chic with a corner set for every type of customers, including couples, bibliophiles and smokers as well. The café serves multiple cuisines, including Italian, Indian and Indo-Chinese within the range of ₹299 to ₹498. Overall, it has a cozy atmosphere giving a homely vibe amidst the hustle-bustle of the Assi ghat nearby.
- Pizzeria Vaatika Café: Amidst the backdrop of the Assi ghat and ganga aarti, the pizzeria vaatika café is a chic themed café that serves continental menu. Filled with a cool ambience, they are popular for their Italian cuisine especially pizzas. Prized at ₹500 for two people, it operates from 7:30 am in the morning till 10 pm. However, it gets crowded during the evening.
- Roma’s Café: The next café is the Roma café that is popular for their cosmopolitan ambience. The café is located near Ravidas’ gate and runs from 11am in the morning till 11pm in the evening. They serve both continental and fusion fast food, along with Indian cuisine. The interiors of the café are unique with an urban classy touch on to it.
- Open Hand Café: A café with a unique concept. This is what describes the open café rightly. The open café is essentially a tourist haven, who have a knack for handicrafts. The café runs a boutique within itself, that exhibits a wide range of artisanal crafts, including shawls, showpieces and cushion cover. One can stroll around the boutique, as they wait for their coffees and snacks. They serve both vegetarian and non-vegetarian culinary. The timings of the café are 7:30 in the morning till 9 in the night.
Conclusion
From the age-old shops carrying legacies to the newly hatched cafes carrying a wave of hybridity, the culinary shades of Varanasi are avant-garde to the whole of the North-Indian cuisines. Uncontestably, the present era Varanasi is about is moving forward while preserving the timeless tapestries.
Frequently Asked Questions:
1. When is the right time to visit Varanasi?
The right time to visit Varanasi is during the onset of winters till the beginning of summers as Varanasi gets unbearably hot during summers. Also, during winters, visitor can enjoy the seasonal delicacies malaiyo and choora matar.
2. Which is the convenient way to travel to Varanasi?
Railways are one of the most convenient ways to travel across India. Varanasi, has one of the busiest junctions known as Varanasi junction. There are trains that run on daily basis, including Shatabdi and Rajdhani express. Apart from that, the Vande Bharat express also runs to Varanasi from New Delhi, Deoghar and Ranchi.
3. How to travel Varanasi as international tourists?
Varanasi has the Lal bahadur shastri international airport that fetches both national and international visitors. It is around 21 km away from the main Varanasi city. The IATA code for Varanasi airport is VNS. The indigo airlines run daily flights from Bengaluru, New Delhi and Indore to Varanasi.
4. How many days it will take to tour in the whole city of Varanasi?
It usually requires 3 days and 2 nights to complete the tour. However, one can also choose a 5-day trip for a better and elaborate experience of the pilgrimage town.
